This was actually the first time I would drive from Cherry Hill to Philadelphia which meant crossing the Benjamin Franklin Bridge. Let me explain that the Bridge goes from twelve lanes to three. Oh and the third lane is mostly closed at the moment due to road works and renovating the PATCO train line that runs below. Can you imagine how stressful that is? Add to the sheer illogic of it that I am not an overly experienced driver, that I am still getting used to driving on the wrong side of the road and that the car I am driving is nothing like my car back home and that I stuggle with the lack of visibility I have in it. I was really dreading this drive and I almost chickened out completely, but Tim said he was sure I could do it. So I decided to bite the bullet and give it a go. I had the GPS on full blast and the radio off to concentrate and everything went fine. My only car worry was where to park since parking can be really expensive in Philly. After some stressful circling of the Penitentiary I did manage to find some free parking just a few blocks away *score* and at last my adventure was beginning.
As I mentioned I had already done my homework on the place on TripAdvisor and the Penitentiary's website. I already was prepared for the fact that the building is in a state of "semi-ruin". As they stated in one of the audio stops they prefer it that way and so did I. It really added to the almost mystical quality of the whole site.
Also I was aware that the admission price included the audio tour. Basically when you enter they equip you with a map, headphones and audio lanyard. It's all very easy to do, at first you follow the introductory tour to learn about the history of the place and then you can explore how little or how much you like of the rest which includes famous inmates, art installations, sexuality in the gaol, hauntings(?), religious life of inmates and more. The main tour is also narrated by Steve Buscemi who does a very good job.
I had the whole day and enjoyed stopping at every station, however it is lovely that you can customise it based on your interests. The map is very detailed and useful in planning your route so if visiting I recommend stopping at the end of the main tour to decide what interests you next. Also staff are located throughout the facility and available to answer any questions. They also offer hands on history lessons such as opening a cell, opening the main gate, learn to play bocce, some guided tours and more. Another great benefit of the staff, especially in the winter is that they can replace the audio equipment if it plays up. In the extreme cold it apparently plays up the most, as I experienced. I had to chance my headset three times and the last one I had I tried to keep warm by holding it in my hand which is what I attribute to it lasting the longest.
Oh and speaking of cold, as the website indicates it is pretty important for visitors to be prepared for the weather. Being a "semi-ruin" much of the building is exposed and basically it is like being outside the whole time. When I was there it was maybe 3°C so I was very happy to be wearing my snow proof jacket, beanie, scarf, gloves and over the knee boots. Even so it was lucky that you don't really sit still so the walking keeps you warm as well. It's funny how all the staff can be found at the heaters.
So what did I learn while I was there? I learnt that it was the first true penitentiary. The idea of its construction was conceived by 'The Philadelphia Society for Alleviating the Miseries of Public Prisons', an intellectual and reformist group who counted Benjamin Franklin among their number. Their idea was to place prisoners in solitary cells for the duration of their stays, labouring during the day on honest work (such as shoemaking etc), thus allowing prisoners the opportunity to become truly penitent for their crimes. This would come to be known as the Philadelphia [penal] system and has been emulated in most countries throughout the world at some point.
Though the system was eventually changed in the 1900s to move away from solitaty confinement. Gone were the private exrcise yards behind each cell and the women also, who were eventually moved to their own prison in accordance with the new system of separating the sexes. Eventually the penitentiary was very overcrowded and the age of the building began to show.
For example in one of the free activities you are invited to open a cell. This is not as simple as it sounds. You are provided the key and given step by step instructions, even so it is complex and time consuming. Something that is a bit of a problem when you need to open and close them daily to let inmates in and out. This is just one of the many little details that you learn about, I really did find it fascinating.
Also the use of art installations is very powerful tool as they are all related to the prison system in one way or another.
The first that I encountered was the graph. It shows from front on the U.S. rate of incarceration and on the side how the U.S. compares to other countries. This was fascinating.
One of the most impacting exhibits was the one below. A local artist had painted the faces of the murdered victims of former inmates of the prison. There was a bound book below the painting with a biography of the victims and details of their death. It was very sad but she had also done a beautiful job of immortalising them.
Another somber exhibit was about Guantanamo Bay. Inside one of the cells at ESP is an almost exact replica of one of the holding cells of Camp X at Guantanamo Bay, Cuba. It also includes all of the items that are found in the real cell.
Other exhibits included a film, a fully knitted cell, a newspaper made from newspaper excerpts from the duration of the time the penitentiary was in operation, a car stuck in a cell etc.
But besides from the interesting history which I have not even scrapped at for you hear and the fascinating art installations which are changed regulary, the main attraction for me was the penitentiary itself. Some say that it is haunted, and they do have regular ghost tours etc., but whether it is or not it is definitely a hauntingly beautiful building and well worth the visit. Here are some of my photos. I got a little excited with the seemingly endless photo opportunities and filled up my memory card at the place. I was just intrigued by the architecture and the symbolism of the decaying remnants of the building and furniture. The whole place seemed to symbolise the decay of the failed system which was once celebrated and founded at this very site, the Philadelphia Penal System.
Oh and speaking of cold, as the website indicates it is pretty important for visitors to be prepared for the weather. Being a "semi-ruin" much of the building is exposed and basically it is like being outside the whole time. When I was there it was maybe 3°C so I was very happy to be wearing my snow proof jacket, beanie, scarf, gloves and over the knee boots. Even so it was lucky that you don't really sit still so the walking keeps you warm as well. It's funny how all the staff can be found at the heaters.
So what did I learn while I was there? I learnt that it was the first true penitentiary. The idea of its construction was conceived by 'The Philadelphia Society for Alleviating the Miseries of Public Prisons', an intellectual and reformist group who counted Benjamin Franklin among their number. Their idea was to place prisoners in solitary cells for the duration of their stays, labouring during the day on honest work (such as shoemaking etc), thus allowing prisoners the opportunity to become truly penitent for their crimes. This would come to be known as the Philadelphia [penal] system and has been emulated in most countries throughout the world at some point.
Though the system was eventually changed in the 1900s to move away from solitaty confinement. Gone were the private exrcise yards behind each cell and the women also, who were eventually moved to their own prison in accordance with the new system of separating the sexes. Eventually the penitentiary was very overcrowded and the age of the building began to show.
For example in one of the free activities you are invited to open a cell. This is not as simple as it sounds. You are provided the key and given step by step instructions, even so it is complex and time consuming. Something that is a bit of a problem when you need to open and close them daily to let inmates in and out. This is just one of the many little details that you learn about, I really did find it fascinating.
Also the use of art installations is very powerful tool as they are all related to the prison system in one way or another.
The first that I encountered was the graph. It shows from front on the U.S. rate of incarceration and on the side how the U.S. compares to other countries. This was fascinating.
Another somber exhibit was about Guantanamo Bay. Inside one of the cells at ESP is an almost exact replica of one of the holding cells of Camp X at Guantanamo Bay, Cuba. It also includes all of the items that are found in the real cell.
Other exhibits included a film, a fully knitted cell, a newspaper made from newspaper excerpts from the duration of the time the penitentiary was in operation, a car stuck in a cell etc.
But besides from the interesting history which I have not even scrapped at for you hear and the fascinating art installations which are changed regulary, the main attraction for me was the penitentiary itself. Some say that it is haunted, and they do have regular ghost tours etc., but whether it is or not it is definitely a hauntingly beautiful building and well worth the visit. Here are some of my photos. I got a little excited with the seemingly endless photo opportunities and filled up my memory card at the place. I was just intrigued by the architecture and the symbolism of the decaying remnants of the building and furniture. The whole place seemed to symbolise the decay of the failed system which was once celebrated and founded at this very site, the Philadelphia Penal System.
Very nice pictures!
ReplyDeleteThanks Barbara, the place is lovely in a spooky way and I had a lot of fun playing with our DSLR camera and finally learning what all the settings do!
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